With a mission to create a luxury winter playground on par with its sister city of St. Moritz in Switzerland, Vail is a charming ski and snowboarding resort in the stunning Rocky Mountains of Colorado. The mountain resort, with its tallest peak reaching 11,570 feet and its Alpine-style base village at 8,120 feet, was built in the early 1960s by and for skiers. Local rancher Earl Eaton and professional skier Pete Seibert, professional skier and member of the 10th Mountain Division of the U.S. Army, collaborated to create the resort. With the help of key investors and partners, Vail Resort quickly became the most popular ski resort in Colorado. Today, it is the largest in the state, with over 5,300 acres of terrain to ski and ride.
For my husband’s family and our own, Vail is an extension of home. Our family has enjoyed the slopes of Vail since 1963 and owned a place here for more than 40 years. We know its village restaurants, mountain trails, and hidden treasures well. In light of that, I’ll be your tour guide to this wonderful place with some personal tips of my own.
What I appreciate most about Vail is that it embraces modern technologies and culture while still maintaining its Old World-style charm. You might marvel at how clear the walkways are of snow. That’s because the walkways in the entire village are heated. Yes, heated. Vail gets more snow than most ski/ride resorts in Colorado—354 inches on average. So, it snows a lot. Even when it’s snowing, the walkways stay dry, safe, and pleasant. Vail spent millions to make that possible. So, everyone gets to enjoy the snow without the mess and a stroll in the village while it’s snowing is pure magic.
Another forward-thinking program Vail offers is their free ride system of clean and easy to find buses that circulate throughout the village. Buses typically run from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. with minimal wait times. They are currently transitioning the entire fleet into new clean energy electric ones as well. Forget about the stress of driving and the hassle of parking, all in snow. No designated drivers needed either. Everyone rides (and enjoys!) the buses while there. Vail wants you to enjoy yourself by taking away the mess and stress that snow can bring. Embrace the buses!
Lodging in Vail, Colorado
Because Vail was built in the 1960s, some older 3-star lodging can still be found, but most of Vail’s lodging options are modernized with luxury finishes and contemporary standards. There are condominium complexes at the eastern edge of the village like Manor Vail Lodge and ones like it. This small neighborhood sits steps from the Golden Peak chairlift on one side of it. On the other side, it overlooks the Betty Ford Gardens and Gore Creek, offering varied lodging options in a convenient, yet quieter location. The neighborhood also offers some lovely Old-World inns like Tivoli Lodge, which has been in the Lazier family since 1968 but was completely rebuilt in 2006.
In Vail Village you’ll find charming original Alpine style accommodations like The Lodge at Vail and the Sonnenalp Hotel in a modern rustic decor with Bavarian touches. These are in the center of it all with world-class restaurants and shopping steps away. In the newer rebuilt section of Vail, you’ll find the 5-star Ritz-Carlton Club and the Four Seasons Resort and Residences with the fireside balcony of the popular Remedy Bar (above) with beautiful mountain views.
Skiing & Snowboarding in Vail, Colorado
Vail has a lot to offer the skier and snowboarder alike. The high season for the best chances for great skiing and riding conditions are from mid-January thru February, but the entire season generally starts in mid-November and runs thru mid-Apri. With thousands of acres to enjoy, there’s plenty of space for everyone to find that perfect run. When all the runs are open it’s easy to feel like you’re on top of the world and the only one there.
The Resort is always thinking forward in making improvements on the mountain trails to provide a high caliber experience. They are continually modernizing lifts and grooming equipment, updating on-mountain restaurants and rentals, and generally helping everyone have a great time. Snow sports don’t come without risks and being serious about safety is part of the Vail culture. Wear a helmet or be prepared to look foolish for being one of the very few who don’t. Everyone wears helmets.
Speaking of helmets, let’s talk equipment. Vail is bursting with ski and snowboarding enthusiasts who work there just to satisfy their passion for the sport and can ski or ride on the mountain during their time off. You can purchase great ski or rider clothes from just about anywhere but get your equipment on the advice of people who know far more than most anyone else. If you’re a rider, we recommend Buzz’s Boards in the village. If you’re a skier, we recommend Christy Sports in Vail Village or Vail Resort rentals.
Why Renting Equipment in Vail Resort Often Beats Owning
We’ve gotten fitted for boots and helmets we purchased by experts in Vail, but since we largely only ski in Vail once a year or so, we’ve also found that renting is the way to go for skis and snowboards. The rental companies on the mountain and in the village continually update, tune, and wax their gear. They aim to provide the best equipment and service in a competitive market.
Keeping up with maintenance and the ever-changing technology can be difficult and expensive. Unless you ski or ride often and maintain your equipment properly, you may find Vail rentals far superior. That combined with being fitted by experts who understand your skill level, the mountain conditions and what equipment will suit your style of skiing or riding, we find renting makes the best investment in the end.
“High quality rentals and lessons were the best decision we ever made.”
As you advance in skill and explore different terrain your equipment needs will change. The often-powdery snow conditions at Vail require different equipment choices compared to the often-icier conditions here on the East Coast. So, once we stopped dragging skis and boards through airports and started renting better, custom tailored equipment from the Vail experts, everyone was having an incredible time and we never looked back.
Vail leads the way in training world class athletes like snowboarder Windham Miller and Olympic gold medal skier Lindsey Vonn who grew up in Vail, but everyone starts somewhere. The Vail Ski & Snowboarding Academy serves elite athletes and beginners alike. Instruction is available for all ages and skill levels. Skiers and riders alike can take private lessons or join in a small class setting to learn from highly skilled instructors at any level. To master the sport, you never stop learning.
Why Lessons Early in Your Trip Pay Off
We have found if you don’t ski or ride often, you should join a class on the first day to practice what you know. A good instructor can help you avoid bad habits that lead to injuries and teach you to improve your technique. This tip can really enhance the rest of your time on the mountain. By the end of your visit, you will have improved your skills and had a better, safer time doing it.
Vail was built to specifically cater to the advanced snow sport enthusiasts and athletes. So, they are continuously investing in the resort to keep their standards high and that’s reflected in the higher price. For those of you who have mastered your sport and are tackling advanced runs, you’ll enjoy over half the mountain and over 2,800 acres of gorgeous snow with magnificent views that just can’t be beat. You will love it!
“Because Vail’s instructors are so passionate about snow sports, they want you to catch that bug and be doing those legendary Back Bowls someday too.”
If you’re not an advanced skier or rider, though, don’t be intimidated. Vail devotes 47% of its terrain to beginner and intermediate skiers and riders. I feel Vail’s instructors are so passionate about snow sports, they want you be doing those legendary Back Bowls runs someday too. You’ll be learning from true experts. What more could you hope for in a teacher?
For us, high quality rentals and lessons were the best decision we ever made. If you’re going to spend all that money to be there, make the experience count. That might be my number one tip for a safe and epic ski and ride experience in Vail. I wouldn’t say that of every ski & ride resort where the rentals are tired and the instructors subpar, but for Vail I can’t say it enough. Vail attracts devoted skiers and riders to work there. Tap into their expertise!
Après!
“Ahhh… après!” Yep. In a culture where there seem to be as many snowboard riders as there are skiers, we now just say “après!” (not “après ski”). In our family we have both skiers and riders. After a few great morning runs, friends and families gather for après lunch or drinks. Vail Village fills with happy people clomping through the streets in heavy boots.
Our favorite meet up for lunch is Vendettas’s in Vail Village for awesome Italian food to carb up on. Our other favorite is Bart & Yeti’s on the Lionshead side of Vail. A regular haunt for locals, this cabin style pub is great for amazing bar food and atmosphere. Bart & Yeti were the much-loved dogs of the owners when they opened the place nearly 40 years ago.
There are surprisingly few restaurants in Vail with terrific views of the surrounding mountains, but if you’re looking for a view while you relax with a meal and beverage you can’t beat the view up on the mountain at The 10th in Mid Vail, at the Ridge + River at Manor Vail Lodge (above top left) or The Remedy at the Four Seasons. Don’t be shy about going to restaurants in hotels or lodges that you aren’t staying in. Most, if not all, welcome everyone. If you want to après or dine at any one of these great restaurants with beautiful views, you’ll absolutely need to make a reservation, especially in high season.
Shopping in Vail
The shopping in Vail doesn’t disappoint. From high-end sport shops to art galleries and everything in-between, I always manage to find something special. Be sure not to miss Gorsuch for divine luxury European designer mountain fashions and home decor. Family owned and operated, Gorsuch can be found in Aspen, Beaver Creek and Park City but Vail is their flagship store that opened in 1966 and is a true treat to visit. With it’s iconic clock tower (seen below) in the center of Vail Village, you can find it easily.
If you’re a lover of Vail, then a stop in The Golden Bear is a must. The golden bear has been the iconic symbol of Vail Valley for generations since 1975. It is tradition to wear the bear pendant facing your heart as a symbol of your love for this special place. Another stop I highly recommend is Vail Village Arts. Featuring quality art of all mediums and styles, we enjoy admiring the curated works and have family who have made some cherished purchases there. A stroll around the village wouldn’t be complete without a stop in the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory. Made in Durango, Colorado, their fine chocolates are worth the calories!
A Gondola Ride at Sunset
Watching the sun setting over the stunning Rocky Mountains is both romantic and memorable. Every date night should start here. And for the members of the group who aren’t skiing or riding and don’t get to take in the breathtaking views the skiers and riders do while up on the mountain, a gondola ride is a must. There is Gondola One that picks up in Vail Village and Eagle Bahn Gondola that picks up in Lionshead Village. You can enjoy the breathtaking views of the Gore Mountain Range on the gonolas typically from 9am to 3:30pm during the winter.
The members of your group who are not skiiing or riding can also take Gondola One up to Mid Vail at lunch time where there’s a variety of dining options to meet up with skiers and riders for lunch without them having to come off the mountain. Dining options include the casual burger and fries to the more upscale 10th Restaurant for a gourmet, full-service lunch. The 10th was voted among the 10 Best Ski Restaurants by USA Today’s Readers’ Choice awards and is popular. So, reservations are strongly recommended.
Dinner & Nightlife in Vail, Colorado
Vail Village has some excellent restaurants. A popular go-to spot since the 1960s is Pepi’s where you are transported to the Bavarian charm of Austria. The Antler Room restaurant includes some dishes entertainingly pan-seared tableside and a unique European menu for game meats, like venison or caribou, to fresh fish or homemade spätzle. The late Pepi Gramshammer was an internationally renowned ski racer from Austria. He settled in Vail in 1964 with his wife, Sheika. Sheika still runs the landmark restaurant, bar, hotel and high-end ski shop alongside their two daughters. Hosts to celebrities like Clint Eastwood, Barbara Streisand and the late President Gerald Ford, the cheerfully painted golden yellow establishment is at the center of Vail Village. It’s an integral part of Vail’s charm and history and one that is always a treat for us to dine at. The bar is always hopping too!
Other date night options for fine dining include the high-end Left Bank Restaurant which has been a Vail fixture since 1970. Under the direction of French Chef/Owner Jean-Michel Chelain since 1996, they offer excellent French cuisine. Other great restaurants include the Michelin Guide restaurant Sweet Basil for outstanding New American cuisine since 1977 and Lancelot, Vail’s best prime rib steakhouse since 1969. While those are some of Vail’s dining classics, don’t let it stop you from trying any one of the many great dining options there are. There are many!
An Evening Stroll Through Vail Village
After dinner, a stroll through the village is magical. Be sure to head over to the walkway by Gore Creek to see the annual display of ice sculptures, consider a spin around the ice rink in Lionshead or browse some of the art galleries and shops that stay open late. After-dinner drinks and lounges are popular. Our favorites include the elegant King’s Club in the Sonnenalp Hotel which has live music daily at 7 p.m., cozy conversational seating and a roaring fireplace with top shelf drinks and nibbles.
The Famous Haute Chocolate Experience
Our other favorite is The Remedy Bar at the Four Seasons Hotel which is sophisticated and sexy. We especially love to sit on the balcony by a fire table at dusk to enjoy the mountain view. The espresso martinis are great, as are the truffle fries, and the Haute Chocolate is spellbinding. It comes with a house-made marshmallow block suspended on top of a delicate chocolate tuile, with Chantilly crème in the cup. Your server will elegantly pour the hot chocolate over the marshmallow to melt the chocolate tuile and mix it in with the divine Chantilly creme. It’s an Instagram and TikTok reel favorite. See it in our Instagram reel link at the end of the article! Beyond the delightful show of the presentation, the flavor is divine!
Don’t forget to top your Haute Chocolate off with Bailey’s Irish Cream, Peppermint Schnapps, Kahlua, or Frangelico—your choice. Mmmm, right? The Remedy also serves excellent cuisine. For either the dining or bar seating, reservations are a must. I would even recommend you make them a week or two in advance in high season.
For an artisan style experience with great wine, craft cocktails and beautiful sharables, give Root & Flower bar a try. This elegantly artistic space also serves up live music and has a more intimate vibe. Archetype Distillery is another sexy bar and tasting room located across from the ice sculptures. They serve up their own brand of wine-grape distilled gins and vodkas. Their artisan spirits are made in their distillery in nearby Gypsum, Colorado under the direction of President and Master Distiller Michael Chapyak. They also offer cocktail-making classes for a fun and unique experience.
“The espresso martinis are great, as are the truffle fries, and the Haute Chocolate is spellbinding.”
If you’re up for some late-night dancing and clubbing, Vail has some fun options there as well. In Vail Village, check out the Shakedown Bar near Gondola One for live music until 2 a.m. Just around the corner you can also check out Bridge Street Bar that offers both live music and a DJ to keep the dance floor hopping in a party atmosphere.
A Vail Valley Sleigh Ride & Dinner
If you have a car or hire transportation, it’s always fun to take a break from the slopes, get out into the surrounding countryside and experience something different. A popular winter fieldtrip is to enjoy a sleigh ride and dinner. Bearcat Stables is our favorite choice, and it’s located not far away in Edwards. Owned and operated by Nicole Godley (seen below) who has a lifetime passion for horses and her all-women team of wranglers lead guided trail rides during the summer and sleigh rides paired with dinners in the winter.
Located in a majestic setting, you’ll be welcome to enjoy the fire with a hot chocolate in hand as your sleigh ride party assembles. Her gentle team of magnificent horses will gracefully pull your sleigh through a beautiful Vail Valley trail. On our last ride there, as the night set in, we listened to the sounds of the backcountry and enjoyed Nicole’s terrific stories. We were then seated in her charming, historic pioneer log cabin and treated to an extensive wine list and freshly prepared dinner brought in by a local chef. It’s a great experience and one that our family enjoys immensely.
Dog Sledding with Professional Mushers
Another off-the-slopes experience that is well worth the time is a visit to Colorado Dog Sledding in Silverthorne. The company is owned by Dallas Seavey, a third-generation dog musher and the only six-time Alaskan Iditarod Champion in the world. He recently set up a team of professional mushers in Colorado where they can offer dog sled rides while exercising their racing dogs. It’s a rare opportunity to experience professional dog sledding in action and have a chance to interact with these highly athletic and affectionate dogs.
The mushers have created a track on the private property of Acorn Creek Ranch which offers the perfect setting for a private dog sledding experience. Overlooking the majestic Gore Range, the 800-acre property offers a specular vista to enjoy while gliding over the snow. Guests are welcome to ask the mushers all about the dogs and gain insight into this fascinating sport.
The charming custom wooden sleds made in the style of the early 1900s add a romantic touch to the occasion and your guide will pause during the ride to offer you a photo opportunity. We used our photo on our Christmas card! Learn more about these special athletes here and see our fun Instagram reel. We had an absolutely wonderful time on our dogsledding ride and loved both learning about the sport and interacting with the dogs. It was awesome.
Snowshoeing at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens
President Gerald Ford and former first lady Betty Ford were longtime Vail supporters and skiing enthusiasts beginning in 1968. They owned a home in the area and were active members of the Vail community until they passed away in the early 2000s. Established adjacent to the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater (which comes alive with popular performances throughout the summer), the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens on the eastern edge of Vail Village was founded in 1988. It seeks to preserve, educate and celebrate its internationally acclaimed collection of alpine plants and is a great place to visit even in winter.
During winter months guests can don snowshoe rentals available at their Education Center for an informative garden tour with a naturist guide by reservation or explore the gardens self-guided. Afterwards, warm up inside the Center with a cup of hot tea and wander the exhibits. During your visit you will learn about the unique ecosystems of the Rocky Mountains during the winter months that is fascinating.
A visit to these beautiful gardens is one of my favorite things to do during our times in Vail. The landscape covered peacefully in snow exhibits a special quality that is hard to describe and maybe Mrs. Ford says it best. As an avid gardener herself, Mrs. Ford said in 1991, “As someone who has always loved gardening, it fills me with a great sense of serenity. Just walking along these winding paths, with the abundance of beauty so close to the touch, brings an introspection & sense of calm too often missing in our lives.”
Tips on Getting to Vail
With over 30 major resorts located high in the Rocky Mountains, winter sport tourism is big business for the state of Colorado and well supported. So, this makes getting into the mountains fairly safe and easy despite the frequent snows. That said, I recommend you leave the driving to the professionals and not attempt to get a car rental in Denver and drive in yourself. Getting through the Rockies in snowy conditions can be dangerous for drivers inexperienced with these kinds of conditions. The professional shuttle drivers do it all day long and know how to handle it.
Once you arrive at Denver International Airport, you can take a small plane for a one-hour flight into Eagle Airport. From there you can drive a rental car to Vail in about 35 minutes or hire transportation. Alternatively, from the Denver airport you can hire a shared or private shuttle which will drive you directly to Vail in about two hours. Because these shuttles run more frequently than the flights, they often get you there faster and are less costly. We’ve done our fair share of both over the years because we have family who can pick us up at the airport, but more often we shuttle in and get dropped off right at our place. Your two shuttle options are Epic Mountain Express and Summit Express, both of which are great.
Understanding and Managing Altitude Sickness
When you arrive in Vail, you will be over 8,100 feet above sea level and may experience altitude sickness. Altitude sickness feels a bit like a bad hangover—headaches, dizziness, nausea, insomnia, fatigue. Typically, your body will adjust to the lower oxygen levels at this altitude within a day or so. But it’s important to keep in mind that on your first day there you’ll want to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and not overexert yourself.
Exposing your body to high altitude slowly is the key to avoiding the worst of altitude sickness, which for some can be mild but for others quite severe. Be assured that Vail has an excellent hospital right in the village that you can call on if you have serious altitude sickness symptoms or problems of any kind.
Make your first day in Vail relaxing to allow your body to acclimate to the altitude and you’ll likely be great. We all feel it on Day 1, but by Day 2 we’re fine and ready to hit the mountain to ski or ride. We spend Day 1 off the mountain getting our equipment ready and finding more relaxing activities around the village. Everyone is different, but most everyone does fine with it.
There are few places in the world where you can be carried to the top of a mountain to witnesses the spectacular views you’ll be exposed to in Vail. Take a moment to enjoy it, then have the time of your life skiing or riding down that incredible mountain and enjoy everything else Vail and the surrounding countryside has to offer. The Rocky Mountains are a special place, and Vail certainly makes it easy to enjoy them. ~
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R. L. JOHNSON is our co-publisher and creative director, Robin Johnson Bethke, who began her career as a professional photographer in Los Angeles before moving into graphic design and art direction when she relocated to Charlottesville in 1994. As our company’s co-founder and visionary, she enjoys all aspects of the publishing process from story conception to graphic design to photography. Her work is often seen in many of our publications.
