A casual outpost for Southern soul food like collard greens and sweet potato pie, the food at Mel’s Café in Charlottesville is as “haute” as any served on a white linen tablecloth. For 30 years, Mel Walker, proprietor and chef at Mel’s Café, has been blurring the lines between casual and fine dining by infusing thoughtful ingredients like integrity, love and tradition into every recipe.
A Collard Greens Recipe & Community
You obviously understand the art of the home cooked meal. Are you from the South?
I was born and raised in Charlottesville’s controversial Vinegar Hill neighborhood. In 1963, my family was one of hundreds of displaced residents who were moved into the Westhaven public housing project. Even with segregation and cultural discrimination, those were still good times. I remember playing with my brothers and cousins in the woods, pretending it was the jungle because we didn’t have the money to buy toys from the store. But Grandma always had food on the table for us.
Was it your Grandma, then, who taught you to cook?
Actually, no. When I was 11 years old, I got a job as a dishwasher at The Virginian on UVA’s “Corner.” One night, the chef didn’t show. My boss, Mr. Frank Kessler, Sr., asked me to cover for him. I guess I did a good job because the next thing I knew I was the new night cook. At 19 years old, I tried my hand at fine dining and took a job as the part-time cook at the upscale Kings Table Restaurant. By staying close to the executive chef there, I mastered my skill and became a self-taught chef by the age of 21.
Was your plan always to open Mel’s Café?
In the ‘80s, I was fortunate enough to be able to buy Mel’s from a guy named Harvey Jackson. But before Mr. Jackson owned it, the building was a place called the Duck Inn and belonged to a guy who always had a big ‘ol cigar in his mouth. The Duck served up some fat sandwiches, and they sold home-cooked chicken dinners for $1.50.
How did you develop the menu for Mel’s?
Although Charlottesville was integrated, the city’s African-American community has always had a strong social presence along West Main. Because my café was located in the heart of this community, my customers were mostly neighborhood folk, who wanted straightforward Southern soul food. So that’s what I gave them. But as the neighborhood gentrified, my customer base diversified. Now most of my clientele are UVA students, tourists and locals looking for good home cooking.
In June 2014, you were honored with the Chuck Lewis Passion Award, which “celebrates entrepreneurs who overcome obstacles and achieve success.” How did winning it make you feel?
A good friend of mine, Chef Tony of Chef Tony Catering, nominated me, which was an honor in and of itself. But winning it was wonderful. I used to buy my produce from Chuck Lewis, so knowing him personally made winning a whole lot more of an honor.
What’s the secret to your fried chicken … and success?
Because it makes a difference in the texture of the breading, I don’t pre-cook the chicken; it’s always made-to-order. It takes longer for the customer to get served, but it’s worth the wait! My success? Well, that comes from hard work and dedication. We also treat everyone nicely and with respect.
You’re a die-hard fan of the Washington Commanders. But are you a Hokie or a Hoo?
I’m not a die-hard Hoo, but I ain’t no Hokie!
Collard Greens
Ingredients
- 5 lbs. Collard greens
- 8 cups chicken or turkey broth
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 fresh garlic clove, finely chopped
- 1 1/4 cup liquid smoke
- 1 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1 1/4 cup Italian dressing
Instructions
- Pick through the collards, discarding old and discolored leaves.
- Strip leaves off the stems.
- Wash the leaves thoroughly, ensuring that all the dirt and grit has been removed.
- Finely chop the collard leaves and the garlic clove.
- Put all the ingredients into a pot and boil them until the collards are tender.
- Should be ready in about an hour.
ALLISON MUSS, an advertising copywriter, copy editor, newsletter publisher and freelance writer, has had other food-centric work published in various regional and local publications.
BETH SELIGA of 3 Cats Photo began her photography career with the exhilarating rush of photographing professional cyclists from the back of a motorcycle. Her work was featured in Sports Illustrated, USA Today, Wine & Country Weddings and Pro Cycling, among other international publications. The recipient of multiple Recognition of Merit awards and a 2nd Place award in the senior category, presented by the National Association of Professional Child Photographers, she focuses on fine art wedding, portrait and senior photography.
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